This was the CP Empress of Canada that Ted Davis and I sailed to
Liverpool from Montreal in September of 1966. It was a 29,500 ton
vessel and had stabilizers underneath the waterline. However, we
encountered the tail end of a hurricane when we reached the Gulf of St.
Lawrence. The waves were some 45 feet high and the ship rolled so
badly that the stabilizers broke free at the surface. 90% of the
passengers and 50% of the crew were seasick.
This was a Scottish castle turned into a youth hostel that Ted and I
stayed at. We hitched up to Scotland from Liverpool and went
through Edinburgh and Inverness up to Tongue, then down the west side
to Glasgow. We hitched past Loch Lomond on the way to
Glasgow. I later found out that my mother's side came from
Inverness.
Then we heard about the Octoberfest in Munich and so we headed south to
Liverpool and caught the train to London where we stayed in a youth
hostel for a couple of days and toured the town. This is
Piccadilly Circus. We then took a train which rode the ferry that
crossed the English Channel from Dover to Calais and then continued
onto Munich.
Ted and I got to Munich and soon spent the rest of our money at the
Octoberfest. I then got a job at an American Army base called
McGraw Kaserne or something like that washing dishes and serving food
to patients in the hospital. I got about 650 Deutsch marks a
month as well as a room to sleep in and some meals. Ted got a
survey job with an American firm in Munich.
This is the exterior of the beer drinker's shrine - the Hofbrau
Haus. It was over 900 years old in 1966!
Here is a shot of the interior, showing all the happy beer
drinkers. They had a little umpa band in the corner of the room
which played Bavarian beer drinking songs and greatly livened up the
place. I loved the German food served here, especially the roast
pork hock and dumplings.
In the spring of 1967, another Canadian (Rick Hammer) and I hitched
down to Italy on our way to the Middle East. Ted went back to
Canada with a German girl (Gertrude) that he met and married.
This is the first big Italian town Rick and I came to - Bolzano.
I remember my first experience with Italian plumbing here when I went
to a lavatory in a train station. There was only a hole in the
cement with no water or toilet paper!
We went to Venice next and I was really impressed with the ancient
streets and buildings there. The sea water was very high when we
were there and I remember drinking beer in a pub where there was about
4 or 5 inches of salt water on the floor as we sat on bar stools.
We next went to Rome via Florence and saw the Roman coliseum here as
well as the Appian Way and the Vatican. We then hitched down to
Naples and then went to Brindisi to take the ferry to Greece.
We walked around the Parthenon that is on top of the Acropolis in
Athens and were much impressed with its antiquity. I understand
that tourists have for many years now no longer been allowed to walk in
the structure like we did. I think the concern is for its
structural integrity due to the effects of acid rain.
Rick and I got a ride with a circus into Istanbul where we saw many
interesting sites including the Blue Mosque shown here and an ancient
covered bazaar called the Grand Bazaar where the Turks sold all manner
of goods, including Turkish mersham pipes that some used to smoke hash
with.
Rick and I hitched through Ankara to Lebanon where we saw this ancient
castle called the Fortress of Byblos built in 1108.
We continued on down to Beruit and then east to Damascus, then south to
Aman and west past the Dead Sea to the West Bank of Palestine and onto
Jerusalem. We were advised to return to Beruit if we wanted to go
on to Egypt rather than go through Israel. We did that and then
the 6 Day War started between Israel and the Arab nations. We got
a flight out to Athens from Beruit.
Rick had met an English girl, Lany, in Jerusalem. She came back
to Munich with Rick and I. Then, after I got some money from
home, we headed off to Spain through Baden Baden, Bern (shown here) and
Geneva, Switzerland. We got a ride into Bern with a Swiss girl
who bought us supper and a hotel room for the night. She was
completely fascinated with our freedom to travel about the world.
From Geneva, we hitch hiked west through Lyon, France and onto
Pamplona, Spain.
The three of us stayed at a campsite in Plamplona where we drank
copious quantities of red wine that cost 6.25 pesetos or about 10
cents a litre. Each morning a siren would go off about 7 am to signal
the start of the running of the bulls. We never managed to get up
in time to participate in the event - just as well, maybe... From
here, we went to Barcelona and then onto Narbonne at the French
border. From there we hitched to Paris.
I went up the Eiffel Tower elevator and I remember some Americans
mistaking me for a German because of the clothing I was wearing and
then talking about me as though they thought I didn't understand
English. I was so embarrassed I carried on as though I didn't
understand them. When Rick and Lany caught up to me, we toured
the Louvre where I remember seeing many Eygptian artifacts brought back
to France by Napoleon as well as a famous painting called Whistler's
Mother and Leonardo da Vinci's
Mona Lisa. I parted company with Rick and Lany and headed east to
Luxembourg to try to get a flight to New York for $160..
I slept under this bridge when I got to Luxembourg. However, when
I went to check the airfare, I didn't have enough money for the fare so
I hitched onto to Brussels, Belgium and then north to Rotterdam,
Holland to try and get a working ride on a ship.
By some miracle, I managed to find a
portier on the docks that was able to talk a German Captain of a
freighter into taking me on as a carpenter's helper in return for
passage to Montreal. The Dutchman invited me to stay with him and
his wife for a couple of weeks until the ship came in. So I did
and I therefore had an opportunity to see the local area around
Rotterdam as well as visit Amsterdam. When the ship came in, I
got on and the ship went up and down the English channel for 3 weeks
picking up cargo at Bremen, Hamburg and Rotterdam. Then we
crossed the Atlantic. The ship was only 6,000 tons so it was a
relatively tiny freighter by today's standards. Even in calm
seas, the rollers were quite mountainous and the freighter would labour
up one side and then slip down the other side in a long rather nauseous
slide that was almost worse than the storm waves that Ted and I
experienced on the way over to Europe.
Finally, I landed at Montreal in early
September, 1967. I had been away from Canada for a year.
Exp 67 was still on so I went and toured the site. Then I hitch
hiked to Ottawa to see our capital.
After Ottawa, I hitched to Winnipeg to visit Bob and Roberta where I
got a phone call from Ted to drop by Edmonton on the way back. So
I did and this picture was taken there. As you can see I had
quite a beard. One of the American farmers I got a ride with on
the way through the States from Ottawa asked me if I "was one of them
religious fellers?" I assured him that I was not.
I hitched home from Edmonton to Vancouver where I stayed the night in a
skid road hotel in East Hastings for the princely sum of $1.00.
The next morning I noticed a sign giving the guests advice about bed
bugs.
I hitched out to the Horseshoe Bay ferry and I barely had enough money
to get on. When I got to Nanaimo, I walked through the town and,
on the southern outskirts, got a ride from a guy who was going flying
from the Nanaimo airport. I told him I was returning from a year
in Europe so he offered to fly me down to my parent's home at Cobble
Hill which I readily accepted. He did a doughnut over the
parent's house but, unfortunately, no one was home so he landed on a
grass strip near Mill Bay and I walked home from there.
It was a great year of very memorable experiences which I shall always
treasure. After I returned to Cobble Hill, I got a job in a
logging camp and worked there through the winter of 1967-68 first as a
tree planter, then a chokerman, then a chaser and then on road
engineering crew before returning to UBC in the fall of 1968 to
complete my forestry course. I finally graduated in 1969.
This is my inimitable grad picture.
I was very fortunate in living in the era that I did because I didn't
have to look for a job. The employers came on campus and hired us
on the spot. I accepted a job offer with the BC Forest Service
which I stayed with for 30 years, retiring at the end of June, 1999.